The indoor/outdoor cats debate

Disclaimer:

This Australian website presents both sides of the indoor/outdoor debate. However, it does not support the total confinement of cats unless appropriate environmental enrichment can be provided, including if possible an outdoor enclosure with cat-friendly accoutrements. 

Updated: October 2006

Always the first argument raised for confining cats is to prevent their predation on birds and other wildlife. However, there is a great deal of propaganda and misinformation about the threat cats actually pose to wildlife, and this is thoroughly discussed under The truth about cats and wildlife. It is important to reiterate here that the natural cat is nocturnal and much prefers to prey on rodents, also mainly nocturnal, than on any other species. Rabbits or hares are also a favourite prey if available. A problem with confining cats at night is that often they will become daytime hunters and thus potentially pose a greater threat particularly to birds.

But irrespective of whether cats are a real or imagined threat to the local wildlife, it can make sense in certain environments to confine them, at least partially, for their own safety. Threats to free-roaming cats include

• Cars. Cars are a number one killer and maimer of people, wildlife and cats. Cats and many wildlife species are particularly vulnerable at night when they are easily dazzled by headlights, and cats have a bad habit at any time of running blindly across the road in front of oncoming traffic. Some cats in urban and suburban areas do become streetwise and learn to avoid traffic, but many thousands more do not and are killed.
• Dogs. Dogs on the loose or in neighbouring yards can kill and/or inflict dreadful injuries on cats. Young cats in particular may be overconfident that they can escape a dog, in fact have been seen almost deliberately taunting them, as though certain they can leap in an instant out of harm’s way. And indeed they usually do, cats are incredibly athletic and have tremendously quick reaction times, but can get into trouble if they misjudge a leap up a tree or over a fence.
• Diseases. In Australia cats can be vaccinated against most of the killer feline diseases, including now feline immunodeficiency virus or FIV, an illness that compromises the immune system much like AIDS in humans, in fact it is often called feline AIDS. It is transmitted from one cat to another mainly through bites from fighting with an infected cat, most commonly a stray or feral tom cat. Unvaccinated cats allowed out at night are at definite risk of contacting this disease.
• Marauding tom cats. Owned or stray/feral tom cats are public enemy number one for domestic cats out at night, especially for young cats, who think they can take on the big guys and come out on top. This is seldom the case unfortunately and they can be seriously injured. With older cats the situation may not be so bad because the fights are mostly "hiss and wind" with no close contact - though unfortunately, some domestic neutered cats are as fiercely territorial as feral toms and will fight seriously in an attempt to drive the intruder away. Eventually one or other of the combatants will be badly hurt, usually the domestic cat. Cat bite wounds are particularly prone to infection and abscessation and can result in systemic illness. A cat obviously unwell, in pain and depressed from even a seemingly small bite wound should receive veterinary attention. As already mentioned, stray and feral cats are the main reservoir of FIV and other feline viral diseases.
• Other animals. In Australia, dingoes and foxes will both attack domestic cats though reported incidents are rare because both species avoid too close a contact with human habitations, although foxes are increasingly moving into outer suburbs that still have remnant bushland areas, often attracted by food scraps thrown out for birds and other wildlife. Heresay evidence from cat owners in semi-rural and rural areas is that cats, foxes and dingoes pretty much avoid one another provided they are not under environmental pressure.

  Snakes are another danger for cats, as they are for people and all other animals, and just as much a threat during the day as at night. A personal observation from watching cats walk in grassy or bushland areas is that they are constantly suspicious of anything, even a stick, that is snake-like in appearance and avoid it. Young cats are the most at risk because they will chase snakes. A very few cats, like some dogs, become snake killers and consequently are unlikely to live long.

• External parasites. Fleas can be transmitted from stray and feral cats to domestic cats, but not in plague proportions. It is in confined cats, especially those kept in high density situations as in catteries and shelters, that fleas can become much more of a problem if control and treatment measures are less than adequate. Aside from fleas, the main ectopic parasite of cats in Australia is the potentially deadly paralysis (scrub) tick (Ixodes holocyclus). This tick can cause paralysis in all warm-blooded animals including birds and humans, but cats and dogs are at particular risk. Also it is capable of transmitting certain viral, protozoal and bacterial diseases including Lyme disease to humans and dogs, though the existence of true Lyme disease is unconfirmed as yet in Australia.The paralysis tick can be found right down the east coast of Australia, largely confined to bushland and rainforest areas not too far inland, though pockets exist further west in all states, e.g. in Queensland it is found on the Toowoomba escarpment, the Bunya Mountains and around Warwick. The tick requires humid conditions and its main host is the bandicoot, whose preferred habitat is low leafy vegetation, abundant in these areas. The tick moults through three stages in its lifecycle, dropping off the host and reattaching to another until the final adult stage is reached when it engorges on the blood of the final host (which can be any warm-blooded animal), injects its poison then drops off to lay eggs. It is important to point out that confining cats will not totally prevent ticks attaching to them. In bushland areas, bandicoots will come right up to houses and forage for grubs in the garden, also they will drink from pets’ water containers on patios and eat scraps thrown out as garden compost. Ticks can fall off them and crawl into the house or be carried inside in other ways thus ending up on the family pet. Humans are as likely as pets to pick up ticks and bring them back into the house, either from walking in bushland or simply working in bushy parts of the garden. In "ticky" areas pets should be thoroughly checked every second day, though every day is better because then it becomes part of the daily routine and is easier to remember. Also the extra handling involved in the daily search for ticks is or should be a fun time for pet and owner and is a great way to further cement the pet/human bond.
• Chemicals and poisons. Illness and death in cats is possible from indiscriminate use of garden chemicals and poisons, but most responsible people would keep both pets and children away from such products for the recommended period. A real risk in colder climates is spilled antifreeze, said to have an appealing taste to cats and quite deadly. The risk is just as great for indoor cats with access to the garage. Legally or illegally laid baits are always a worry, though cats are naturally suspicious and less likely to take a bait than dogs. Rat poisons are a real concern, cats can die a horrible death from eating a poisoned rodent, although cats used to catching their own prey are unlikely to touch a rodent that is already dead. But it has happened, also they might catch and eat a rodent that has been poisoned but not yet seriously affected by it.
• Cat haters. Some people really hate cats because of their perceived threat to wildlife and birds, or simply because they cannot stand to see strange cats on their property, perhaps using the garden or children’s sandpit as a toilet. Cats have been cruelly tortured and killed as a result, or been shot or had things thrown at them, not to mention being the cause of bitter neighbourhood feuds. And indeed, cats are difficult to confine to their own backyards compared with dogs.

Other reasons given for confining cats include:

• General safety. Aside from the obvious hazards to outside cats, there are other less predictable dangers, the one most often quoted being the likelihood that they can be stolen or picked up by strangers, either as pets for themselves or for cruel purposes. This is much more likely with the confined cat that accidentally gets out, such cats tend to lose their instinctive wariness of strangers. Personal experience from more than fifty years of indoor/outdoor cat ownership is that very few would have ever allowed themselves to be touched let alone picked up by a stranger, and then not without a great deal of coaxing. In fact a down side of being owned by cats is that it's difficult to show them off because they seem to just melt away when visitors come.

  It needs to be pointed out too that an indoor life is not totally risk-free. There are many chemicals and toxins used in the house that can cause allergy and illness in cats, same as in humans. An added problem is that cats, like babies and toddlers, are closer to the floor, where the miasma from such products is most concentrated. Accidents to cats in the home are not uncommon, these range from falling off narrow ledges like room dividers (cats don't always land on their feet) to being stood on by heavy people, eg if the cat is asleep on a floor or carpet of similar colour to themselves. Other indoor hazards include string, thread, dental floss and plastic bags left lying around, and for kittens, falling in the bath or toilet. Irons can topple off ironing boards, slamming doors are killers, and electrical cords and cables are magnets for youngsters who might bite through them and electrocute themselves. Blind cords and slatted blinds are other hazards and can cause strangulation.

• Indoor cats live longer. This is true on average though plenty of outdoor cats live as long as their indoor counterparts, in fact many of the statistics quoted for the longevity of indoor cats are skewed, being based solely on breeding cats living in catteries. Always such arguments must beg the question about quality of life versus quantity. Obviously it is foolhardy to not confine cats living in high risk situations, but those extra years must be happy and fulfilling for the cat.

("Outdoor cats" usually means those free to come and go or partially confined only. Sometimes referred to as "indoor/outdoor cats")

As has already been stated, the argument for or against confining cats must be governed by the situation. Proximity to busy main roads and dogs on the loose are the two biggest dangers to free-roaming cats and it is asking a lot to expect them to survive such conditions unscathed, although a remarkable number do. However, many do not and confinement or semi-confinement of such cats is a sensible option. In a less dangerous environment cats like children must be allowed to take some risks if they are to enjoy full quality of life. It is a great pity, some would even say cruel, to overconfine cats “in case” something happens to them.

Keeping cats indoors is commonplace and accepted in the United States, many cats are in fact kept in high-rise apartments and units and have to be confined of necessity. But people of other countries, particularly Australia and Britain, are appalled by this, and indeed some of these indoors-only animals must live very unfulfilled lives. It begs the question, why have a cat at all? Surely one of those robotic animals would be better. Others argue that it gives a cat a home that otherwise might have been euthanased in a refuge. And this particular argument can go round and round with no satisfactory outcome. It depends very much on what behavioural outlets are made available for these confined cats, as discussed under keeping indoor cats happy.

Other arguments (not necessarily those of the author) for NOT confining cats are:

• It is not natural to confine cats. Despite millennia of close association with humans, the cat retains an independent nature and is happiest if free to come and go. In fact it has been said that the term "domestic cat" is an oxymoron because the cat has never been truly domesticated, and certainly, anyone who has outdoor cats will attest that even the most contented and affectionate fireside feline has a wild side that manifests itself once out-of-doors, particularly at night. Both these sides of the cat’s personality are equally appealing to and appreciated by true felinophiles. Some cats cope better with confinement than others. It is particularly hard on young cats, who are eager to explore their world. Personal experience can pinpoint several cats over many years of cat ownership that would have adapted quite happily to an indoors existence, provided appropriate behavioural outlets were provided. Other cats were such free spirits that they would have been better off dead than totally confined. Two cats from memory even returned totally to the wild, first of all by staying away for longer and longer periods and then just not coming back at all. Accidental death was of course a possibility, but knowing the cats involved it is much more likely they simply went wild, and that was their choice.
• It is cruel to confine cats. An extension of the previous point, in that many cats only truly come alive once out of doors, also they do so love the night. Anyone who has listened to the heartrending wails of the cat that wants to go out will attest to how difficult it is to resist. Advocates of confining cats say that this wailing period may last only a few days to several weeks but will stop eventually. Is it because the cat simply gives up and accepts second best? Do they always still secretly yearn to go outside? Probably many of them do, because it is at the very root of their nature. There is a very telling advertisement used by some animal protection societies depicting a bird in a cage with the words: “Twenty, thirty, fifty years of life? But is it fair?” The situation for some strictly confined cats must be a little like that.
• Outdoor cats are healthier. Aside from the obvious dangers to outdoor cats, this is probably true - provided, of course, that outdoor cats have all their routine health needs met, such as vaccinations, parasite control, proper feeding. Certainly obesity is much more likely in confined cats, they eat more to relieve boredom, also they do not exercise as much as their unrestricted counterparts. It is often observed that cats not allowed out when they ask will either go to the food bowl or settle somewhere to sleep. Admittedly play periods with humans or other cats in the household or a selection of cat toys can substitute for activities in the great outdoors, but never completely. Also human owners might start out with the best intentions of keeping their indoor cats active and entertained, but no doubt in many cases the novelty palls or the human becomes too busy or too tired or is asleep when the cat is at its most active during the night. Cat toys in themselves are not particularly appealing to cats for very long either, unless they move in some way under their own volition so that the cat can chase and pounce on them. The movement needs to be erratic, cats soon get bored with something that moves in a set pattern.
• Outdoor cats become streetwise. Also true, provided they survive while learning the skills. Again it’s a matter of common sense - cats living in a low to moderate risk environment have more chance of surviving while they learn. A real problem for indoor cats is if they accidentally get out, and many do. Such cats have few if any survival skills for coping with the outdoors and it is wrong to assume that instinct will protect and guide them. Cats used to the outdoors get to know their surroundings intimately and are much more adept at avoiding or escaping danger. They know how to leap a fence or climb a tree if necessary - and how to get down again. A personal belief is that cats that get stuck in trees are those that have had no or little prior experience of tree climbing, especially when young.
• Outdoor cats don't need litter boxes. This is generally true, although partially confined cats will still need a litter box, also it is a good idea to train all cats to use one in case it is ever necessary for boarding, hospitalisation or transport purposes. Most cats will have some experience of them as kittens.

  Some people find the whole “litter box thing” the worst aspect of having cats, not only because of the smell but the cleaning required and the mess some cats make scattering litter all over the floor. Many cats would be happier if they never saw a litter box, in fact some develop very aberrant behaviours indeed from being forced to use one. Partly this could be because many cats seem to like to "try" several holes before deciding on "the one", something they can't do if forced to use a litter box, also much depends on the litter material, the type of container and its positioning in the house. It is worth reinforcing that any behavioural problem in any animal can be due to the enforced confinement itself.

• Outdoor cats don’t scratch the furniture. Well, not as much anyway, and some never do. All the same, it is a good idea to provide even outdoor cats with an scratching post, although most will prefer to sharpen their claws on natural objects outside, especially the trunks of small trees or shrubs of a convenient height and size and with the right textured bark. In fact all gardens with resident cats will show the evidence very markedly, with certain plants obviously favoured, their trunks deeply clawed and/or bark hanging in tatters.

First of all, some general health considerations. Water must be available at all times to confined or partially confined cats, same as for any animal whether indoors or out. Also they must have access to grass, which can be grown in a container if necessary. Grass seems to be an essential health requirement, perhaps as a source of roughage, also an emetic. Confined cats get desperate for it and if none is available will attack pot plants or any other leafy material in its place. Some indoor plants are highly toxic to cats especially the common lilies, eg peace, madonna, easter.

Another vital requirement is a clean litter box - more than one if there are several cats. If cats have access to an outdoor enclosure, it is often possible to construct a larger litter area for them using shavings, sand or loose soil enclosed in a low timber or brick framework on top of the ground. Cats much prefer this larger, more natural area and it can be kept clean in the normal way - manual removal of faeces and wet patches, also much of the urine will drain away into the ground. The area may need to be dismantled and rebuilt in other parts of the enclosure from time to time to allow for aeration. Cat faeces can be composted just like any other animal manure and used on the garden.

Nothing substitutes completely for the Great Outdoors, but if cats have to be confined it must not be under concentration camp conditions. Young cats especially have periods of intense activity and do not mix with expensive soft furnishings, for which they can scarcely be blamed. (Declawing, so widely accepted in the United States, is illegal in Australia unless for some medical reason - and so it should be.) Confined cats may also develop inappropriate elimination behaviours and undergo personality changes. Having a mate of the same age will circumvent many of these problems in kittens and young cats, but older cats may resent a newcomer and develop even worse behavioural problems.

Outdoor enclosures

An outdoor enclosure can exist as an independent structure in the garden and the cats have to be transported to and from it or possibly access it by a netted tunnel from the house, but usually it is built onto the house with access via a cat flap in a door or window. Cat flaps are available for wooden doors, screen doors and glass sliders and the more expensive ones can be set to open both ways or only inwards or outwards as required. They may have clear perspex flaps or metal ones, also the flaps can be removed altogether if the cat shows reluctance to push through them. Some cats never master the art of easing the flap down gently with their body and tail as they go through, the result being that the flap crashes down on their tail - little wonder they become fearful of using the cat door. Other cats, especially young ones, will fool around with a cat flap and can get injured if they poke a leg through and then try to withdraw it before going all the way through themselves.

Cat enclosures are available commercially and can be custom-built to suit individual situations. However, do-it-yourself is usually much cheaper. One method is to use steel posts, shelf brackets and wire netting. The steel posts are driven into the ground, a shelf bracket is attached to the top of each one and the whole is draped in wire netting. The idea is to end up with an enclosure 2 metres high with an inturning overhang at the top of about 30 cms, though a wider overhang or even total roofing-in may be required for very agile cats, or some polythene pipe can be strategically tied onto the wire netting so that cats cannot get a grip to climb up. Cats may get their claws temporarily caught in wire netting but seldom if ever will they be unable to free themselves. A bigger danger is collars getting caught and these should be removed.

Other types of outdoor enclosures include

• Window boxes, perches or wire cages built out from or resting on a window ledge. These are seldom very big but at least the cats can get some sun and view the outside world.
• Screened-in or latticed-in porches are another alternative, the resultant area is usually large enough for some cat furniture like cat trees and scratching posts, shelves and ramps for the cats to exercise on and explore. Also moths and other insects usually manage to get in and chasing them will provide endless hours of amusement for many cats. This situation can be enhanced by leaving a light on in the evenings.
• Finally, the best type of enclosure of all is the whole garden. If small, a sheeting material that is six feet or more high once erected and too smooth for cats to gain a foothold can be used for the whole perimeter - Colourbond fencing is an example. A much cheaper alternative is to use attachments to the top of existing garden fencing that keep owned cats in and strays out. Various types of cat fence-in systems have been devised to serve this purpose. Using such a system, cats have complete freedom to do what comes naturally within the confines of their own garden and in complete safety. The manufactures claim they can devise a system for any type of sound existing fence.

Environmental enrichment

"Environmental enrichment aims to satisfy the need of cats to interact with their environment and puts complexity, unpredictability and choices into a cat’s daily life." (From Max’s House)

Ways of providing environmental enrichment for confined cats include -

• Cat trees, climbing and scratching posts.The styles and types available are enormous, including those with hiding holes and intricate platform arrangements and some that release food when scratched. The act of scratching is not only to sharpen claws, but also to stretch and exercise the muscles.
• Toys to jump at and chase. These include ping-pong balls and practice golf balls; screwed up pieces of newspaper on string which can be pulled and flicked around for the cat to chase or hung on the back of chairs, or even tied onto fishing rods that can be cast out into a larger space. Anything furry or feathery that can be made to move erratically is attractive to cats, including mechanical mice. They enjoy chasing torch and laser pointer beams, also light reflected from a mirror. Toes and fingers under the bedclothes are very enticing and can provide lots of fun if the owner is willing. Another favourite sport of indoor cats is to chase bugs and insects that manage to get in.
• Hidden treats. Small amounts of especially liked dry food can be left hidden throughout the house. Finding it gives cats something to do and having to search for food mimics their natural behaviour.
• Vantage points. Cats like to watch the world go by and should have access to a window perch where they can look out on an interesting scene - if it can provide sun and fresh air as well, all the better. Cats also like to climb or jump to high places to get a better vantage point or to escape a real or imagined foe. Walkways can be provided between high points in a room, with access by a tall climbing post or conveniently placed shelves or furniture.
• Boxes and paper bags. (NOTE paper bags only. Plastic bags can be death traps for cats.) Cats certainly love to investigate cardboard boxes and paper bags and get in them if they can. Boxes placed in quiet areas of the house are a favourite hiding place for cats when they want to get away from it all. They are also great playthings to dive in and out of or, if strategically-sized holes are cut, feel with paws for small objects placed inside.
• Leash training. Cats can be walked in a harness or collar and leash like a dog, although there are some that will never accept it and others that will do so reluctantly or for short periods of time only. Obviously, because of the instinct of cats to run in the face of danger, or if prevented from doing so, to scratch and bite so hard that they are impossible to hang onto and become a danger to themselves and everything in the vicinity, they should never be walked in an area where they might feel threatened. Some apartment cats do become habituated to walking on city streets and in parks amongst dogs, people and traffic without concern, but presumably it must only be after slow and gradual exposure to such environments.
• Supervised outings. Many cats can be trained to stay within the confines of a garden that is reasonably fenced, at least while you are watching them. Most people spend some time each day in the garden and it is not difficult to supervise a cat at the same time, even if it is only for twenty minutes or so, which seems to satisfy many of them anyway. If the cat goes too close to the fences or even shows signs of wanting to leap them, a few judicious squirts with the hose, hand clapping or voice commands will dissuade most of them. Cats are surprisingly trainable in this way (though there are exceptions) and will soon get the message. Many older cats won't even make a first attempt to get out, appearing to be quite fearful of whatever might live beyond their own garden fence, at least during daylight hours. It is a great shame never to allow such cats some freedom in the garden. There are reports of some cats happy just to be carried outdoors in their owner's arms for short periods each day, while others apparently enjoy trips in the car, perhaps then to be walked on a leash in a cat-friendly park or similar outdoor area. Some cats will walk with their owners without restraint, but naturally the environment must be well known and dead safe.

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  Forum discussion  

   

  The following comments are extracted from the About.com cats’ forum. They were contributed by everyday cat owners mainly from the United States, but with some from Australia and the United Kingdom as well. Most of the contributors FOR outdoor cats are from the UK and Australia, those AGAINST are almost invariably from the US. The comments have been slightly edited in some cases for the sake of brevity and clarity. The host Gary was a major contributor to and leader of the discussions. If any other contributor recognises their words and wishes to be acknowledged (or have their comments removed), please send an email

  Keeping cats totally indoors is not natural, they become lesser animals. They sleep more and eat more ...

  It is cruel to switch an outdoor cat to indoors.

  Outdoor cats living in safe areas live just as long as indoor cats.

  Some cats prefer to be indoors especially if they’ve had a bad experience. Some cats reared indoors still always hanker for the outdoors.

  My indoor cats have lots of toys, catnip, food, clean litter boxes and ME!

  They were all raised as indoor cats, all are neutered and they don't even have the desire to go through an open door.

  I am committed to providing them with special perks in their new home, the best of which is a completely latticed-enclosed back porch so they can go outside but not beyond the boundaries of the house. It is a huge success!

  I have two indoor/outdoor cats. We adopted them from a shelter and they’d already had a taste of being outside. We tried to keep them inside only for some months but they never stopped trying to escape, scratching at the door, yowling at the door, etc. We finally gave in and let them go out during the day. They then behaved much better when they were inside.

  The latticed-in porch seems to satisfy the cats. They can get better views of the birds and they can still chase insects, which they love to do (the flies and moths). The only thing is that they very much want some grass, which I know because a few of them have snuck out behind me and immediately started eating some grass right outside the porch. They weren't trying to "run free". So I grow some oat grass for them in the yard and tear off pieces of it for them to eat on the porch. They really chow it down. I have also grown grass in pots on the porch, but I get a better crop from the grass growing in the garden. Plus, they mostly ignore the grass in the pots.

  I put cat harnesses and long leashes on all of them and attach them to special leash stakes that "screw" into the yard. But be sure they can't get close to a fence, if they try to jump the fence they could be left hanging. I never leave them unattended, as cats spook and panic easily or they get tangled around each other. After about an hour, all but one wants to come back in, even though I'm willing to stay out longer.

  My five cats have adjusted well to being in harnesses and on a leash, but I don't walk them, I tie them in the yard (never leaving them alone.) I tried walking two together once, but they both took off in different directions at the same time. You can't really appreciate a cat's strength until you have been in the middle of a tug-of-war with two cats pulling your arms out! And it really is too much to walk five of them one by one, with the others pitifully crying for their turn (cats don't have much patience.) When they are tied out, they do understand the limit of the leash, don't fight it to go further, seem content, so that works best for me.

  If you'd really rather they don't go out, it would probably be best to not start. Since I started taking them out to the yard, three of my cats insist I take them out daily when I get home from work.

  Our cat's an indoor cat. I try to keep the indoor environment as interesting as possible, although I can probably never match the great outdoors for sights, smells, and variety - or danger. I also engage him in interactive play every day. He seems pretty happy. I also leave a hidden treat or two around the place when I'm gone during the day.

  We do have one daily outdoor excursion, which is a little weird but enjoyable. I pick him up, go out back, and carry him around the back yard. He really enjoys it. He almost never tries to get down.

  My cats have a large cat pen and screened front porch and they love it.

  As a vet I see a lot more cats getting sick living outdoors - cat fights, abscesses, infectious diseases, feline leukemia and feline aids.

  Indoor cats tend to get overweight - but they can still get exercise and not go outside. Interactive play can burn calories too. Limiting food intake is a good idea or feeding a reduced-calorie food.

  Ways of letting cats outside without the risks include leash training or building a cat enclosure of some sort. In addition, try to make the indoors very interesting with interactive playthings, treats left in hiding places, boxes to play in, etc. And provide window perches from which to view the outside world.

  I trained my cat to respect the boundaries of my backyard. It required me watching her for the first few weeks when I let her out. When she would venture outside the safe boundaries I would pick her up and tell her sternly "NO". Now she rarely goes outside those boundaries, and when she does and I see her, she makes a beeline for the backyard knowing she is not supposed to be in the neighbour’s yard.

  You could buy one of those "cat hammocks" that secure to your window sill. We have two, and the cats use them all the time.

  There's always the leash option. It seems like slow and steady, good harness, short leash, staying close to home is the way to go. When I take my cat out (just holding him, which luckily, is fine with him), I try and do it at the same time each day, and we always have a treat when we come back in. So it becomes a routine.

  In general just make sure the inside environment is stimulating and comfortable for kitty; you can experiment with different ways he can climb, and view, and run, and play, and scratch, and "hunt". You can also experiment with other things that he might find fascinating, e.g., running water, a bird video, a bird feeder outside, "purr pads", etc.

  As the current owner of 4 inside/outside cats (neutered, up-to-date on vaccinations, wearing flea/tick protection), I thought long and hard about granting them "outside" privileges. For me, the clincher was that no matter how big and cozy and comfortable my home is, and how many toys it has lying around, and how much love I would be willing to bestow on my cats (and food) , I would be imprisoning a living creature against its will. Just because I chose these animals (or they chose me) doesn't give me the right to cut off their evident desire to walk free.

  Of course I sometimes fear that kids will throw rocks at them, or a dog might chase them and make them run under the wheels of an oncoming vehicle, or that a cat-hater will try to entice them with poison-laced food, but those are risks that I'm willing to take (and I'm sure they are too) for the sake of their freedom.

  Remember that cats are highly intelligent animals and just because they've been domesticated, that doesn't mean that they've been rendered defenceless. But I certainly draw a line at one thing: I would never, ever allow a declawed cat to go outside! I'm not in favor of declawing (a euphemism for "mutilation" in my book).

  In my experience, I've also found that my neutered cats do not venture too far from our house. And they keep out of trouble with stray/feral cats (most of the time). Yes, sometimes my cats have come home with minor cuts and bruises ... just like kids who scrape their knees while playing in the park. And just like a caring parent, I tend to their scrapes, worry a bit, but allow them to once again go out and be kids (in my case, I allow my "kids" to go out and be cats.) Don't think that my cat-owner life has been devoid of sadness. I lost my very first feline (also an inside-outside cat; neutered, up-to-date on vaccinations, wearing flea/tick protection and a collar) without ever knowing what happened to him. I guess he must have decided to go find the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. But at least he was free to do it!

  Both my cats have been outdoor/indoor cats, and both absolutely love it. My first cat really hated being kept inside, when I moved to an upstairs flat we built him a cat ladder that was bolted to the window sill, and attached to the wall that surrounded the property. As soon as we got it in place I showed it to him and he was so excited he ran up and down it several times and I have never seen a cat so happy! When we had to move again, it took me a very long time to find somewhere suitable as I had to have access to a garden for his sake, in fact it was kind of irrelevant what I needed, he was the top priority.

  Our cat absolutely adores being outside - and because it's summer we often sit out on the lawn that surrounds the flats and he's always with us, running around, visiting other people sitting on the grass, having a snooze next to me while my boyfriend and I play Scrabble, rolling around on the bark around the trees. He's really really happy and because our area is quiet, with lots of bushes to hide in, banks to sunbathe on, water to look at, swans to dream about catching and grass to play on, and far from the main road, I wouldn't dream about keeping him inside all the time.

  I too have had the joy of seeing my cats sunning themselves on the concrete walkway that leads to our terrace or sleeping belly-up under a shady bush ... and these are the things I could never deprive my cats of - I'd hate myself for it!

  Some cats are more eager to become indoor cats. As a matter of fact one of my four is just like that and she only ventures out for brief periods, preferring the comforts of her very own pillow or our living room carpet.

  Some of the things I do to make the indoors more interesting: interactive play, getting to know what's fun for the cat; scratching posts that fit his scratching style, at places he likes to scratch; lots of attention, as time allows; places to climb; places to hide ; comfortable places to lounge; toys and treats in hiding places.

  Well I don't know why you bring up antifreeze so much, I know it is a big killer and just a teaspoon alone can cause kidney failure. I don't know where you live, but I don't think that it's a factor where I live. Also, the fact that indoor cats live longer than outdoor cats is kind of a misconception - most indoor cats are pedigreed.

  The only reason to keep cats indoors is for their own safety (cars, dogs). People who do it for expedience - eg they live in highrise apartments - shouldn't have living animals IMO but instead should get one of those ghastly robotic things, or totally create an outdoor environment indoors for their cat, and this is possible. If you live in a safe area for cats, then let them continue coming and going as they please. I suspect that part of this new wave of keeping cats indoors is also fashion.

  One of the best features of interactive-type indoor toys is - you! You can make the toy come alive, you can let your cat score lots of victories and get in lots of good pounces. You can make the toy hide under the carpet or jump up on the table. You can make the toy peek out from under the door. You can invent new games. You can vary the terrain so that kitty has things to hide behind and jump around. You can make or buy a tunnel for kitty to run through. Interactive play also strengthens the bond between you and your cat. And it's fun!

  A less lethal risk (that exists in this country [US] anyway) is neighborly relations. Some neighbors will be angry if your cat poops in their kids' sandbox, or in their garden, or kills the birds at their birdfeeder, or even walks across the car with dirty paws.

  I understand the appeal of the outdoors, but let's not understate the risks. Emergency vets and local animal control wardens are two good resources who can tell you about all the dead and injured outdoor cats they see, including ones who up to the time of their demise were "street smart" or had a perfect record. I know it's possible to have a delightfully happy indoor cat, for whom every behavior is well accommodated, and whose owner is not worried all the time. Throw in a harness/leash and/or an outdoor enclosure, and you have a kitty heaven that incorporates the best of both worlds.

  Of course the cat will want to go outside, because cats are the ultimate opportunists - they want to get into everything. They want to go into the garage, the cabinet under the sink, the dryer - because they're there. We impose limits for their safety and provide ample alternatives.

  I'm sure not arguing about the traffic situation, cars are the number one killer and cause of injuries and I semi-confine my own cats for this reason. Also any situation where cats cannot escape a dog or dogs or cruel children, or are too young to yet have the skills.

  Do people confine their kids in case they pick up an illness? Actually exposure to the general bugs that live in the environment imparts immunity. Animals that are totally confined and never have exposure to them are the ones that can get seriously ill.

  Warfarin is an extremely cruel death for a mouse or rat let alone any other animal, and a cat can be poisoned by eating a warfarin poisoned rodent. We have never used it, but then we've always had cats that have had the freedom to keep the rodent population under control. But again, in more closely settled areas you don't know what the neighbours are doing and it could be a real danger for cats.

  I never use pesticides and herbicides (or at least only the very innocuous ones like pyrethrins), not only for the sake of the cats but kids as well, also there are much better ways environmentally to control pests - paper wasps will eat aphids on the roses (I know they have a terrible sting but you learn to avoid them), also growing marigolds, garlic with your veges will keep a lot of pests under control, etc. And there's nothing like a bit of elbow grease to control weeds.

  I have a cat myself that I'm sure would be quite happy if he had to be totally confined provided his behavioural and physical needs were met. I have another one that would wreck the house, in fact I am sure would be happier dead than totally confined. The other two are in-between and probably could be converted one way or the other without too much drama.

  I forgot about snakes. Always blamed (probably wrongly, often) in the case of unexplained deaths or mysterious disappearances. In my 60 years of cat association, my mother had a cat she thought might have been bitten by a snake (no vets within cooee of where we lived in those days to verify) and much later in life I had a much loved 17yo who simply disappeared. I searched for him for days and suspected a snake, but maybe he just went away to die, they do sometimes.

  Of course I agree with at least the night confinement of cats, but their behavioural needs must be met. A negative side is that this forum is full of stories about cats with behavioural (and health) problems which are the direct result of failing to meet these requirements.

  I've had cats all my life but have never lived in the US so I cannot comment on the circumstances there. We have had many cats and never lost one through any actitvity associated with the outdoors. In the UK it is normal to allow your cat the freedom to go out unaccompanied and while I could never gauruntee nothing would happen (in the same way with me or my family when we go out) I have always selected my homes with the cats in mind. If I lived in an unsuitable environment I would not consider keeping a cat. I would rather allow my cat to follow her instincts and enjoy the indoors and outdoors, and maybe live a little less time (my cats have all lived to 18-20) than deprive them of the outdoors.

  Our circumstances in the UK are different, and people’s attitudes are different. I'm not saying there are no risks because there are, but I would be miserable if I were confined to the house and could only watch out of the window and feel the same for my cats. I believe you have to make a decision based upon your individual circumstances and cannot make them for others.

  We have to keep in mind that although there are many things cats and people have in common, there are also fundamental differences in the way that cats and people see the world, and it's not always accurate to imagine human thoughts going through the cat's mind.

  It's possible to create an enriching indoor environment that not only accommodates all the cat's natural behaviors but in some cases does a better job than the outdoors. A large factor in success is the interaction of the owner with his/her cat. Indoor cat owners also have to get into a mindset right from the start that this house is the cat’s house, also - it's his/her whole world. That means that your house might be covered with cat trees, scratching posts, tunnels, tents, toys, treats, water fountains, kitty grass, hammocks, beds, carboard boxes, paper bags, purr pads, and other cat paraphanelia.

  I understand the quantity vs. quality argument. I just think that the difference in quality is greatly overstated, possibly because too many cat owners don't entirely know how to and/or make the effort to turn their house into a place that takes their cat’s desires and required behaviors into full account. Many cat owners take pride in the fact that when you walk into their house, you can't tell a cat lives there. I want the opposite. I want to walk into a house and know as soon as I'm inside the first room that a cat lives there.

  What is really annoying is the insistence by some people that it's best to keep cats indoors when it's SAFE for them to be outdoors. And I'll stress again - if it's SAFE. Cats totally indoors can only ever be a compromise. I've gone out of my way to live in areas that are safe for cats. I've never lost a cat because it's been allowed out of doors, except in the case of a possible snake bite, and actually indoor cats are just as much if not more at risk from snakes here (Australia). I've twice had carpet snakes (carpet pythons) in the house and they will squeeze cats to death. In both cases the snakes had been in the house for some hours before discovery.

  My biggest concerns with outdoor cats are cars, wounds, and infectious diseases. There are are a number of lesser risks (e.g., fleas, parasites, mean people, etc.) that just add to the big ones. In some areas [in the US] leg-hold traps (for catching wildlife) are a hazard.

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